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When compiling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate well-known award-winning venues. However, nestled high among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the owners totally surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” says a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest place earning such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular destination, has retained much of its original charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.